Wherever there is Manna there is quality
Interview with Matteo Fronduti
Refined though informal atmosphere and delicious though not pretentious food. Matteo Fronduti explains to Luxgallery the philosophy behind Manna restaurant, a paradise corner just at the outskirts of Milan.
Class ’77, Fronduti worked for Armani, Trussardi and many others like D’O Cornaredo, selecting the best to learn the technique and fuel the passion.
The dream of opening his own restaurant became true in 2008. During this first year, his popularity grew significantly, and Manna’s too, of course. Curious dishes, not only for the palate, but also for the soul: half portions for who can not choose between ‘Mbhe ?! and Curiosity Killed the Cat
How did you come up with the idea for this restaurant?
The idea of the restaurant originates from a project and a prerogative: quality above all. After years of experience gained working side by side with great chefs, I felt the need to own my own place where I could entirely free my idea of cuisine.
The first objective of our restaurant is that to get the quality rid of excessive prices. We want our guests to enjoy our food not only once a year, or for important events, but every time they want.
How did you choose the name?
When we were about to choose the name of the restaurant we wanted it to be harmonic and effective, though not tied up to the environment. We liked Manna for the sound: it is catchy. And Manna is a lymph, extracted from bark, that, once properly cut, becomes food. It is recognized by high quality Presidium Slow Food and some recognize it from the Bible as the food sent by God to feed the Hebrews during their 40 years in the desert.
What about your staff?
My staff is young though professionally highly qualified. The key factor to work here is that to be ready and willing, and hard workers without taking things too seriously, as I believe we also have to have fun.
Your dishes feature quite expressive menu names: where do you take inspiration from?
I wish to underline the fact that we first create the dishes and then get inspired by them, so to put a smile on our guests’ faces, when they read the menu. It is a sort of captatio benevolentiae, necessary to cut the distances and make out of the convivial moment, a time of true pleasure.
What do you believe cannot be given up when cooking?
Quality. When cooking, you can make different choices regarding the type of ingredient to use, but you can never come to a compromise with products’ freshness. Thanks to the experience and the technique I gained throughout my previous jobs, we are able to offer dishes that are simple though realized at the best of our capabilities.
Culinary art: what does it mean to you?
The cuisine for me is not art, if anything, it is craftsmanship, a high standard one, but eventually it is just a job.
Brunch together with writers? Where does this idea come from? What is the importance of events for a restaurant like yours?
Events represent what the restaurant aims to be, that is a meeting venue, pleasant and dynamic at the same time. It is not a particularly original idea that to merge gastronomy and literature, what we do is to offer such events under an entertaining light, as the brunch can be, giving room to young emerging writers.
Now you are the creator and Chef at the Manna, what do you want to do as a grown-up?
I would like to bring up and develop this restaurant and my staff. So, yes, as a grow-up I want to be a chef.
Here is what you could be tasting during this 1009 winter, but watch out: at Manna’s, nothing is given for granted and you may happen to taste a different specialty a day. Try to believe it.
Hors d’oevre
POVERTY AND NOBLENESS
Bread, mortadella, stracchino (soft cheese), and toasted pistachios
TAKE A CLOSER LOOK
Carrot pie, ginger and squid
ALMOST LIKE AT MIRANDOLINA’S
Rock mullet in “saor” sauce
THE MIGRANT
Onion omelette
First Courses
MBHE?!
Pasta with beans
CURIOSITY KILLED THE CAT
Pumpkin toasted ravioli, raw red prawns and lard
NOW OR NEVER
Cream (with butter) rice, porcini and Bagoss cheese
ALDO FABBBBBRIZI
Bucatini with cheese, pepper and lamb liver
Second Courses
LAKE SUMMARY
Roasted eel, salted pike and trout terrine
CHEEK TO CHEEK
Guanciale (Italian bacon) with gewurtztraminer and braised Belgian endive
A STEAK
Beef sirloin, spinach and grape sauce
THE TURTLE WON
Lightly marinated hare with butter smashed potatoes
Desserts
GO AWAY DOCTOR!
Overturned apple cake with vanilla icecream
IF ONLY GRANPA KNEW!
Soft chestnuts, pine nuts and rosemary
NOW OR NEVER
Creamy banana and cocoa sorbet
CACOLATO
Hot dark chocolate with persimmon
Manna Restaurant
Tel +39 02.26809153
P.le Governo Provvisorio, 6 – Milan
www.mannamilano.it
Francesca Zottola
Chefs And Recipes, Cool Restaurants, People And Brand, Taste,
Tags: Manna restaurant, Matteo Fronduti, Milan restaurants
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