How does the career of a shoe master begin?
As all things that are important, I also began designing shoes by chance. When I was young I wanted to become a set designer. I was literally in love with Visconti’s films and, especially, with the costumes. In 1971, through some friends from New York, I managed to submit my sketches to Diana Vreeland, the then news editor of American Vogue. She didn’t have a positive opinion of the costumes, but she was fascinated by the shoes. So she suggested me focus on the accessorize.
I followed her advice and here I am.
Anyway, the cinema is always in my heart.
My last collaboration was with Sofia Coppola, for hers Marie Antoinette.

But the “Manolo”, as they are called by the fashion victims, were born only a year later…
Yes. Bacj in London, in 1972, I met Ossie Clark with whom I created my first collection. I remember my dreadful first official issue. I made a shoe using 118 cm of silk and the outcome was awful. The models staggered on the heels, and I was convinced that that would be my first and last collection. Instead, the public and the press were very enthusiastic defining it a “very sexy pace”. I worked for some time with Clark and the shoe we designed together with cherry patterns is, up to know, still my best seller.

You experimented a lot with materials…
I am convinced that anything can be turned into a shoe. Year ago I used titanium, it was very pretty but it made the shoe impossible to wear, it was too heavy. I also had lots of fun while creating an ivory shoe. It retrieved the shape of a Greek column and it closed with chiffon…it was amazing but we sold only four pairs. I also remember a PVC stiletto encrusted with golden stones, created on purpose for the coronation of a beauty pageant winner.

Do shoes need to make a woman look sexy or to make her walk in comfort?
Obviously comfort comes first. Thanks to the skilful Italian craftsmen that make my shoes I managed to produce sexy shoes, with very high heels and comfortable at the same time.

How do you create “Manolo”?
My collections have always been hand-made, because I can’t use computers. Then I send my sketches to the model-makers and they turn them into shoes. I have an average of 300 samples per season, of which only 100 are put on sale. In order to satisfy the taste of all our clients throughout the world we keep the models and change the colours.

What is it that you really don’t like?
Definitely wedges, I find women with platforms not pretty. And I don’t like men shoes. I find them boring. I myself wear the booties that remind of the XVIII and XIV centuries shoes: they are priceless.

To conclude, a compulsory question: will Carrie be able to buy again a pair of Manolo after they have been stolen in a cult episode of the TV show Sex and the City?
I am sorry, but I don’t know it…I don’t watch that kind of TV shows.

Alessandra Iannello

Italian version